mul-let (mul´it): 1 any of a family of edible, spiny-finned percoid fishes, both freshwater and marine, having a small mouth and feeble teeth. 2 the official haircut of the Iowa State Fair, short in the front, long in the back. (aka Business in the front, party in the back.) See also: Ape drape, hockey hair, Canadian passport, neck warmer.
What it is: Last week, Full Court Press, the owners behind The Royal Mile, el Bait Shop, High Life Lounge and other popular downtown venues, debuted Mullet's, inspired by riverside roadhouses you'll find along the Mississippi.
The bar and restaurant occupies a location with heavy recent turnover, formerly occupied by the likes of Romeo's on the River, River Point Pub and other restaurants with unsuccessful runs. The Full Court Press guys have had a nearly spotless record downtown, and can hopefully put an end to the revolving door at this location.
What to expect You'll notice a lot of framed photos of athletes, musicians and actors on the wall, all featuring mullets. Billy Ray Cyrus (who also has a pizza named after him), Dennis Eckersley, Dog the Bounty Hunter and Joe Dirt are all featured. Women also get some face time, with the Brady Bunch's Florence Henderson showing off her flowing femullet. And if you so please, you can post your own photos on the Mulletin Board.
Outside, there are two patios, including an elevated deck that offers an amazing view of the Des Moines River and Principal Park. There's an open yard that will host occasional concerts (like Sunday's Bike Ride and Blues after-party), and possibly games like horsehoes later this summer.
Food options Mullet's has an impressive food menu, with a lot of items I haven't seen around town, like frog legs, crawfish and bluegills. There is an extensive po-boy selection, including The Sandberg, made with Polish sausage, stuffed with Swiss cheese, wrapped in bacon, fried, then covered with grilled onions, barbecue sauce, cheddar jack and cream cheese. There were also a few good vegetarian options, like the sunflower cream cheese sandwich, made with alfalfa sprouts, sunflower nuts and cream cheese.
On Saturdays and Sundays Mullet's serves breakfast, including Omullets (omelets), breakfast po-boys and bacon chorizo hashbrowns.
The drinks The Royal Mile has Scotch, el Bait Shop has more than 100 beers, and High Life serves beer from 1979 or earlier. Mullet's has its own specialty: frozen drinks, each one blended to order. I tried the Miami Vice, which is half piña colada and half rum runner, and the Monkey Tail, made with coffee liqueur, creme de banana, pineapple juice and more. The drinks are a little pricey ($6), but they're great choices for a summer evening on Mullet's decks.
Why you should go Once again the Full Court Press guys have provided a unique take on a classic bar theme. Mullet's is the closest bar to Principal Park, and provides an unparalleled view of Des Moines' under-utilized riverfront.
Mullet’s
Find It: 1300 S.E. First St.
Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Monday through Friday; 6 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturday and Sunday. Kitchen closes at 10 p.m.
Info: 244-1443, mulletsdm.com
