First Look: Baru 66

Baru 66 is a new restaurant in the former location of Sage in Windsor Heights. (Credit: Eric Rowley/Metromix)

The look: Baru 66 opened last month in the space vacated by Sage when Andrew Meek closed his restaurant to run the kitchen at Sbrocco. It builds on the already upscale atmosphere. Dark wood, warm olive-colored walls and a pretty patterned tile floor make the small dining room inviting. Tables were draped with white cloths, and a bright blue bud vase with a single pink rose graced each. Large rectangular paintings of European scenes and dim lighting added warmth and romance.

I'm a romantic, and the bit of story that bookended my visit endeared me to the place. When I asked if the chef had worked in any other kitchens in Des Moines, the woman who served me told me no, he was from France. I asked what brought him to Des Moines and her response was a simple "me." I was instantly smitten with her. Leaving the restaurant, I glanced at a signed photograph of chef David Baruthio near the door, an answer to the mystery of who was busy in the kitchen. (And the restaurant's name, which combines the first part of Baruthio and the 66th Street address.)

The crowd: Couples spoke in hushed tones, but the music (a warm, worldly mix that included a track from "Amelie") was punctured by enough laughter that it didn't feel like I was in church.

Waiting for my meal, I was encouraged by the delighted reaction of the couple at the table across from me. They chose to embark on more than three courses, and at one point I overheard them comment that it was the best meal they'd ever had.

The meal: My prix fixe menu entree options were either cod or seared pork loin, but you might also find scallops, lamb or duck when you dine. A fresh roll and a slice of bread started the meal. They were deliciously crusty on the outside and soft on the inside, but what really piqued my interest was the butter. House made, it had flavorful salty granules that encouraged me to spread even more on every bite.

Then, a miniature quiche amuse-bouche arrived piping hot in its own tiny little dish - a delightful surprise.

The care taken plating each course was evident. Small touches, from a black cloth napkin folded under the bowl of my French onion soup, down to the personal-sized French press coffee setting, made the presentation feel even more personal.

My soup (also very hot) arrived in a square bowl, with a single piece of cheese-covered bread floating on top, like spongy raft on a lake of savory broth. It was filling on its own, but I still had two more courses on the way.

The entrée, a seared pork loin on a potato galette, was colorfully arranged with beets and crunchy ribbons of sweet potato crisps, and served with a bed of greens and steamed carrots.

For dessert, I enjoyed the crème brulee served with raspberries, which went well with after-dinner coffee.

Why you should go: A special dinner transports the diner, enveloping her in an experience that's like traveling, without lines and luggage. At Baru 66 you know you're going for an upscale night out and might pay a little more per person, but the well-edited menu selections and the set price ($29 for three courses) allowed me to relax and fully appreciate each course as it flowed from the kitchen, instead of making decisions about courses a la carte.

Baru 66
Find it: 6582 University Ave., Windsor Heights
Hours: 5-10p.m. Monday through Thursday; 5-11p.m. Friday and Saturday
Info: 277-6627