First Look: Red China Bistro

Mongolian Beef at Red China Bistro (Credit: Brianne Sanchez/Metromix)

What it is: Red China Bistro, alternately called "The Red Poppy," is the long-awaited second location for Valley Junction's upscale Chinese restaurant, Cafe Su. Walking into the dining room — decorated in the opulently modernist style of florist and event planner Saley Nong (DiVine Flowers by Saley) — feels a little bit like stumbling onto a theater set, with black and red walls and towering vases filled with floating flowers and candles. The dark decor is balanced by floor to ceiling windows that look out onto recently streetscaped Ingersoll Avenue, giving diners a sense of being in the center of things and passersby a peek into the stylish dining room. Parking in back leads into comfortable area with benches, which by 7 p.m. on a Wednesday night, was full of people waiting for tables.

What we tried: I had a good giggle over the hilariously matter-of-fact yet evasive menu descriptions:

Egg Rolls — You know. Pork and veggies. Fried.; Spicy Chicken Rolls — Some like it hot. Yum.; Edamame — Yes. It's soy products, good stuff & good for you.

Most of the traditional Chinese appetizers were $6, but several chef-created options are $8. I was contemplating a starter when I noticed the prices for the entrees — $15, $18 or $20, depending on your choice of a chicken, beef or shrimp dish. I figured with that kind of price, it might come with something. I ordered the Mongolian Beef, $18 ("A little spicy. Dress it up to your temperature.") which arrived on top of rice. The dish was good – spicy and tender, and I had enough to bring home for a second meal — but it wasn't $18 good and it didn't come with soup, or even a small appetizer to accent the plate. I had a sense of Dos Rios deja vu: hip location, decent food, but presumptuous pricing. I'd like to have seen the lunch menu (or, more intriguing, the brunch menu), but neither was printed and my server couldn't offer any clues to what might be on either. The dinner menu also includes a selection of French dishes.

Why you should go: A pleasant surprise at Red China Bistro was the reasonably priced drinks list. My bottle of Stella was $3 (same as a Miller Lite) and the cocktail list looked like fun. When I go back later in the evening, I'll gather a group for drinks and appetizers. The ambiance here gives the restaurant an edge over other Chinese spots, and I'm interested to see what their morning options involve. 

Red China Bistro, 2925 Ingersoll Ave.

Hours: Breakfast: 7-10:30 a.m; lunch 11 a.m.-2 p.m.; dinner 5-10 p.m.; late night 10 p.m.-2 a.m. Monday through Saturday. Brunch 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday

Info: 274-0097