Scene: Smokey D's opened earlier this month in Allied/Nationwide's ever-growing empire of downtown office space, and it's hard to imagine how the place wouldn't succeed. There's a built-in clientele of hungry office workers, skywalk access and a seemingly endless supply of smoked meat. So really, what's not to love?
Like D's other downtown location (in the Liberty Building, six blocks east), the dining room is a no-fuss kind of place. Order at the counter, admire the barbecue contest ribbons on the wall while you wait, grab your food, and get down to business. There are tables for about 60, with space for extra diners to shovel down their food at a stand-up bar near the window. The restaurant was packed during my first visit, with a line stretching into the building's lobby, but quieter during a Thursday lunch last week.
Food: The menu is straightforward - beef brisket, smoked turkey, burnt ends and the like - with just a few nods to daintier fare, such as a chicken salad croissant and grilled portabella wrap. But if you go, don't mess around: Order the Smokey D's Special and be done with it. It's a hefty pile of chopped pork on a soft toasted bun, served with a cup of sweet baked beans, not-too-gloppy slaw and a big glass of pop. The pork's mild smoky flavor makes a fine vehicle for your choice of three sauces: mild (think ketchup), sassy (sweet with a slow burn) and fiery (a decent kick). I dabbed on the two spicier sauces and sopped up the drips with bits of the bun. (See? Don't mess around.)
On the clock: Try to go a little before noon or closer to 1 p.m. to avoid the rush. I was in and out in 20 minutes.
Bottom line: Nothing fancy, but a good meal at a fair price.
