Table for Two: Bos

By Joe Lawler

June 10, 2009

Table for Two: Bos
The charbroiled top sirloin at Bos.

The service: We arrived at 7:30 on a Saturday night and Bos was busy, but not overly packed. Our server was attentive and quick to repair a mistake with one of our meals (more on that below).

The atmosphere: Not what I expected. The restaurant is open to the lobby of the hotel, but the beauty of the Renaissance Savery only added to the dining experience. Inside Bos are two large wall sculptures with Italian village scenes by artist Tom Moberg. Overall, the restaurant flows well and has a relaxing design.

The menu: Bos has simpler options like an open-faced meatloaf sandwich, pork tenderloin, and burgers available at lunch or dinner, but the dinner-specific menu really shines. Pork options are from Vande Rose Farms and La Quercia, with Iowa-raised beef for the steaks.

Bos also has a fun drink menu, with old favorites like the Moscow Mule mixed with The Capone (made with Templeton Rye) and Des Moines Ice Water (Clear Heart vodka, rum, soda, Sierra Mist, simple syrup and lime juice).

Dessert options sound fun as well, with cheesecake pops and a chocolate chip cookie skillet, but we were too full to try anything.

The food: I ordered the charbroiled top sirloin, a delicious cut of meat served without sauce to let the natural flavor shine through. The dish came with a tasty vegetable succotash and my choice out of an absurd number of side dishes. I went with house-made potato chips and was not disappointed. My medium-rare steak arrived closer to well-done. Our server handled the mistake with grace, and the kitchen remade the entire dish. The second attempt was great.

My guest ordered a surf and turf special not on the actual menu, but mentioned by our server. A small piece of salmon had a light panko crust and champagne reduction. The reduction was amazing, perhaps the highlight of the meal. The filet of beef featured a red wine reduction and mushrooms, and the plate was garnished with farmers market veggies.

The wrapup: Cool style, perfect regional foods and a great drink selection make Bos a restaurant worth a visit. It's a perfect addition to the growing downtown dinner scene.

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