A step inside the West Des Moines strip mall location reveals a classy bar area and wooden barrels filled with wine corks. Floor-to-ceiling shelves displaying an assortment of wine bottles divide the bar area and the dining room.
The service: It was pretty quiet the Wednesday we stopped in. The only waitress working was pleasant, patient and knowledgeable. She juggled several tables at once, leaving no one thirsty, hungry or annoyed.
The atmosphere: Lighting low enough to feel romantic, yet bright enough to read the menu. Each table is adorned with fresh flowers in an eclectic assortment of vases. Tile floors and white-clothed tables with bent wood chairs give the place a European feel, with tables spaced sparsely enough apart to accommodate American comfort levels.
The menu: Chef Hal Jasa's summer menu (being offered for two weeks when we dined) features a handful of appetizers, salads, entrees and desserts, with a focus on fresh, local, in-season ingredients, and a pleasing assortment of proteins and veggies. The chef's special that night (a different $10 meal available Tuesday through Thursday nights) was a sandwich - applewood smoked bacon, black mustard, gruyere cheese and arugula, served with white truffle potato chips - that was popular with the staff at the bar next door. Dishes are focused and balanced. Each protein is paired with a specific side to complement it, and plated artfully on square china.
The food: Since it was hot outside, we wanted something light, so we decided to split the fall salad, a mix of lettuces with blue cheese, Bosc pears, candied walnuts and balsamic vinaigrette, which the kitchen split onto two plates without complaint.
For my main dish, I decided on the applewood smoked pork shoulder with sweet corn pudding and an agave bourbon glaze. The pork had a strong smoky flavor, and the corn pudding was tasty, but less corn-flavored than I anticipated.
My dining partner ordered the pan-seared airline chicken with lemon couscous and spring garlic chimichurri. The chicken had a delicious golden brown crust that went well with the couscous.
The goat cheese mousse was the perfect combination of sweet and savory to finish the meal.
The wrapup: Phat Chefs is the place to head if you're in the mood for something new to tickle your tastebuds.
