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Since it opened about a year ago in the downtown skywalk, Happi Sushi’s lunch hour popularity has grown, as evidenced by the customer line at peak times. Regulars looking for a quick alternative to deli sandwiches file in for caterpillar rolls, miso soup and salmon sashimi.
For sushi connoisseurs, the style and simple flavors are familiar — a bit reminiscent of the popular Miyabi 9 a few blocks east. That’s because owner and chef Poody Simahano also works at the East Village restaurant, and has learned much of his traditional and clean ways of preparing sushi from chef Mike Miyabi. We stopped by on a Monday at 1 p.m., slightly after the lunch rush, for a Happi Meal.
There are just a handful of tables in the small restaurant (many people take their orders to go), so we secured a spot and stepped up to the counter to order. Happi Sushi accommodates both novice and experienced sushi eaters with specialty roll options (many made with cooked shrimp, tempura and homemade sauces) and traditional choices like sashimi (just raw fish), nigiri (raw fish over a ball of rice) and familiar rolls like the spicy tuna.
My dining partner ordered the sashimi combo Happi Meal for $11.25, a neatly arranged box with two pieces each of tuna, salmon and yellowtail, and one piece each of octopus and shrimp. A serving of white sticky rice was served on the side, as well as seaweed salad (ginger is also available, or squid for $1 extra). His miso soup arrived first. He said the fish was extremely fresh, especially the salmon. He noted the miso was one of the best versions he’s eaten in Des Moines, a full-flavored, brothy soup with slices of mushroom and tofu. The seaweed salad was fresh and light, with a kick of ginger.
I chose the spicy combo Happi Meal with spicy tuna (spicy scallop and spicy salmon are also available). The rolls were neat and uniform, with fresh, spicy tuna and cucumber topped with a light drizzle of homemade sauce. My side was the squid salad, with vegetables in a light dressing that tasted bright and light. I was able to finish my whole meal, feeling satisfied but not uncomfortably full.
Happi Sushi is a well-kept, efficient and affordable spot for lunch or an early dinner in the skywalk (it closes at 5:30 p.m.). The quality sushi is fresh and simply prepared, without over-the-top presentation gimmicks or the addition of extra sauce, toppings and other add-ons. It’s sushi stripped down, and it’s delicious.
