Two for $20: Ken's Diner

Joe Lawler

Juice Staff Writer
July 16, 2008

Two for $20: Ken's Diner
The Biggie at Ken's Diner. (Credit: Eric Rowley/Juice)

EXPERIENCE

The exterior and interior of Ken's Diner on Des Moines' east side don't really match up. You see an average strip mall on the outside, but once through the door it's like being teleported to a small town diner of the past. And I don't mean one of those kitchy-themed restaurants that tries to pass as a diner, either. Time seems to have stood still inside Ken's Diner. And that's a good thing.

The restaurant has a large three-sided counter, along with a few booths in the main area.

ON THE MENU

There's nothing too fancy on Ken's menu - they stick to the short order items they do so well.

Like a true diner, there's a heavy emphasis on breakfast, served all day. You can get hash browns eight different ways with Waffle House-style names (covered, smothered, topped, diced, etc.). There's also French toast, cinnamon rolls, three-egg omelets, pancakes and more.

Lunch and dinner options are no slouch either. Meatloaf, chicken fried steak, chili, burgers and what they claim is the world's best tenderloin are on the menu. Ken's has a signature item - the Beef Delite - which is similar to a Maid Rite. There are also some great dessert items, including milk shakes and homemade pies.

WHAT WE ORDERED

My companion ordered the 1-2-3: one pancake, two eggs and three pieces of bacon. She raved about the pancake, saying, "There is a little bit of crunch in each bite, the sign of a perfect pancake."

I ordered The Biggie: three eggs, hash browns, double meat and a choice of toast, a muffin or biscuit.

I love breakfast. If a restaurant serves breakfast all day, I feel compelled to try it. And I feel comfortable saying Ken's Diner could be my new favorite breakfast place in town. Eggs were big and fluffy, the hash browns perfectly crisp and the bacon ... oh the bacon. It was thick and cooked perfectly. I have high bacon standards, and Ken's exceeded them in every way.

GOOD IF YOU WANT...

Breakfast. I'm sure the other items on the menu are great, but breakfast at Ken's Diner is the reason to stop in.

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