Two for $20: Tacopocalypse at Bombay Bicycle Club

Erin Randolph

| Special To Juice
June 12, 2012

Two for $20: Tacopocalypse at Bombay Bicycle Club
A Vegan Chorizo taco from Tacopocalypse at Bombay Bicycle Club in Clive.

Participating in Sam Auen’s Tacopoc- alypse has become a lesson in patience and perseverance. Until recently, patrons would have to battle long lines to taste The Thing, a breakfast taco slung on Saturday mornings at the Downtown Farmers Market, or bike to bars in neighboring communities where Auen caters to hungry cyclists.

But a partnership between Auen and Bombay Bicycle Club means his tacos are available at the Clive bar six days a week. Patrons can get the tacos, which are handmade and sourced from local farms and sustainable farmers, from 4 to 11 p.m. Monday through Saturday.

We arrived at BBC on a recent Wednesday during happy hour, eager to try our first Tacopocalypse tacos and feeling a bit silly to have been on the outside of Auen’s growing fan base. On this particular night, Auen served tacos made with braised pork, vegan chorizo, grilled tilapia, wasabi brisket, Korean chicken and bacon chorizo. Auen plans to settle on a standard taco menu in the coming weeks and provide an occasional special; he is also planning to install a fryer to make his own tortilla chips for nachos and sesame crackers to accommodate ceviche.

Being a lover of all things chorizo, I decided to try both the bacon chorizo and vegan chorizo tacos, a duo dubbed by Auen as “The Conundrum.” Fresh, handmade tortillas were piled with a generous amount of meat and “meat,” respectively, and topped with a Salvadorian pickled cabbage slaw. I was able to top my own, and loaded it up with fresh cut cilantro, fresh (not pickled) jalapeno slices, and an Auen-made traditional red salsa (the other, a green salsa, is a roasted tomatillo habanero sauce).

As a general rule, I make every attempt to avoid slaw. But in the spirit of the assignment, I relented, and I’m happy I did, as its pleasant flavor complemented the meat and “meat,” and provided a welcome texture contrast. The vegan chorizo was delicious in its own right and will be lauded by the vegan and vegetarian populations. But this meat eater preferred the bacon chorizo, because it combines two of my favorite meats. The handmade tortilla held its own against the grease of the bacon-chorizo combination, and the flavor was so appealing I wished I could bottle it and bring it home.

My dining partner tried both the wasabi brisket and Korean chicken. The brisket was fork-tender and topped with homemade wasabi crema and the same cabbage slaw. Though he expected and wanted the wasabi crema to pack a bit more punch, the saucy accompaniment was mild enough for all taste buds. The Korean chicken taco arrived with a spicy slaw made with red cabbage and a spiced mayo akin to what one would find with sushi. My dining partner thought the Korean chicken had good texture and spices, and the sauce was distinct enough to cut through the heat of the jalapenos and salsa that he’d used to garnish his taco.

At $3 each or two for $5, we had plenty of money left over to taste the wide selection of draft brews available at BBC.

OUR RECEIPT

OUR RECEIPT

Four tacos … $10

Summer Shandy … $2.50

Somersault … $2.50

Total with tax and tip … $18

Tacopocalypse at Bombay Bicycle Club

Tacopocalypse at Bombay Bicycle Club

Find it: 8410 Hickman Road, Clive

Hours: 4-11 p.m. Monday through Saturday

Info: www.bombaybicycleclubdsm.com

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