Datebook Diner: Alohana Hawaiian Grill

Nay Baccam, left, owner of Alohana Hawaiian Grill, joked with customer Chris Keahi. (Credit: BILL NEIBERGALL/DES MOINES REGISTER)

Preliminary visit - not yet rated.

A few years back, a transplant to Iowa complained of going to a rural Iowa cafe, where she ordered beef and noodles. "It was so weird," she lamented. "The beef and noodle mixture was served over ... mashed potatoes!" She paused, waiting for me to join in with a groan or at least a roll of the eyes. I still don't have any idea what her problem was.

That's the way with fiercely regional foods. Combos you grew up with are perfectly normal, and outsiders can tell you no differently. Remember this little anecdote if you go to Alohana Hawaiian Grill, and your plate comes with two scoops of white rice and a scoop of mayonnaise-white macaroni salad. It's a regional thing.

Who/what? The name intersects two Hawaiian words, Aloha (hello) and Ohana (family). The franchise restaurant has two locations in California, plus this one outpost in Clive. Owner Nay Baccam grew up in Hawaii and also owns Quiznos franchises in the Des Moines area.

The look: It's a simple but cheerful strip-mall short-order cafeteria, where Hawaiian music videos played on two television screens. Newbies to Hawaiian food will appreciate the large full-color food photos on the wall behind the counter, where items are grilled or deep-fried to order.

Menu: Grilled marinated meats - beef, pork and chicken - share the menu with deep-fried chicken, fish and shrimp. Diners can order meats Hawaiian-plate-lunch style; that is, with two scoops of rice and a scoop of mayonnaise-dressed macaroni salad. Meats are also available in bowls with steamed rice and mixed vegetables, or as part of a ramen-noodle dish. Burgers round out the menu.

Spam, Spam, Spam, Spam: Some items star Spam, which was popularized in Hawaii by GIs in World War II. Spam masubi, for instance, resembles nigiri sushi - with Spam standing in for the fish.

Tastes: The chicken Katsu plate arrived with chewy deep-fried chicken meat-both light and dark-in a crisp, nubbly coating. Grilled marinated pork, chicken and beef brought mild-flavored meats thinly sliced and served atop crunchy cabbage. Both plates arrived generously portioned, with the standard rice and macaroni salad accompaniments.

Bottom line: Though not the most dynamic food in town, it was inexpensive, filling, and of interest to the resolute culinary traveler.

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