Datebook Diner: Fawn's has four types of Asian cuisine

Green beans at Fawn's Asian Cuisine. (Credit: James D. Fidler/The Register)

Preliminary visit, not yet rated

It's an ideal Iowa-meets-Asia business model, one conceived in the spirit of, "give the people what they want." Fawn's Oriental combines four distinct Asian cuisines on one menu, and by doing so, offers something for the most- and least-adventurous diners.

The look: There is little in Fawn's dining room to underscore the fact that it is an Asian venue. No jarring color schemes, no carp ponds, no wall fans, no bamboo. There aren't even chopsticks on the table.

Instead, diners are enveloped in a soothing, tasteful flow of taupe-toned neutrals, soft surfaces and subtle, food flattering lighting. Overall, the effect is open, clean and immensely pleasing.

Service: It is unfortunate that more restaurateurs do not work the front of the house. Table-to-table schmoozing goes a long way toward assuring customers their presence is appreciated and that they will be well-cared for.

Fawn, this venue's charming, savvy owner, is on to that fact. And neither she nor her service staff, largely family, miss a beat.

Menu: Fawn's big menu is a culinary tour in a binder. For the most part divided by country of origin, offerings include a thorough representation of classic dishes from China, Vietnam, Laos and Thailand.

First bites: "Fresh" is the first adjective that comes to mind. From the first dish we tried to the last, every herb and vegetable that came to our table tasted just-picked. And this is a remarkable, welcome thing this time of year. Portions were huge and prices more than reasonable.

Fawn's spring rolls, packed 'til obese as burritos, were not only beautiful, but also crunchy-fresh masterpieces. I loved them so much I am already planning to pick them up for hot, summer suppers.

Laap, the national dish of Laos, was made with cooked meat rather than raw, but the beef version was authenticated with the addition of chewy tripe. Served with sticky rice so sticky that is was served in individual plastic bags, Fawn's version was not as acidic as we would have liked, but a squeeze of lime fixed that.

Curry dishes tasted of carefully handmade spice pastes. "Angry" dishes seemed more sweet than incendiary, but I think I detected fresh water chestnuts in one of them, so that evens out. Green beans were not the long beans we expected, but tiny little haricots verts, and exquisite.

Bottom line: This place is going on my "visit often" list.

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