Datebook Diner: Flying Mango's barbecue soars to the next level

Bass-ackwards chicken wings from Flying Mango (Credit: Arturo Fernandez/The Register)

When you go to Flying Mango, you might have to park a half a block or so away, but that's OK for two reasons. One, it means the joint is hopping (usually a good sign). Two, you'll get a whiff of your immediate future. That enticing smoke-cooking aroma permeating the block? You're headed that way.

Ambience: Flying Mango has taken over the former quarters of Bistro 43. The vintage European art posters still gracing the walls seem disconnected to the barbecue/Latin menu; fortunately, they've spruced up the place in a daring "Mythic Fire" paint color (yes, that's the hue -we asked). How perfect for the soon-to-be legendary smoke cooking here.

Menu: Lots of barbecue, lots of Louisiana and Latin touches and lots of fun. Find smoked ribs, chicken, brisket and pork loin; Creole chicken or shrimp; red beans and rice; and other entrees priced $9.95 to $21.95.

On a budget: Sandwiches -many filled with the smoke-imbued meats featured on the entrees -are priced $6.25 to $7.95.

Food: Tender, pink and meaty smoked ribs -rubbed with just a little sweetness and spice -were so flavorful we didn't reach for the homemade barbecue sauce on the table (a vivid one, we found out later). Our server described the brisket as being so tender you could eat it with a spoon; she was right. And no thin shavings here; the meaty, thick slices were near perfect, except for a slight dryness.

The smoke-cooked chicken possessed an irresistible mahogany gloss to it, and the meat was tender and subtly smoky. A vibrant coleslaw and a satisfying black bean and rice dish shows that due attention is given to most sides.

The Latin Strip Steak with Chimichurri Sauce brought a decent cut of meat; the dish was made memorable with its sauce -a kind of Argentinean take on pesto that's as lively as its origin might imply.

Missteps: Lime and Garlic Shrimp with Mango Salsa on Black Pepper Fettucine seemed bulky and somewhat convoluted; the shrimp brought citrus tang but little shrimp flavor, and the lovely mango salsa got lost among the overwhelming heft of all that pasta. A sweet potato pancake was mushy -I was hoping for a crisp edge to it.

Service: Delightful and energetic.

Stay for dessert? Yes -try the exquisite cinnamon-chocolate torte with its clever chile pepper garnish made of marzipan and a clove stem.

Exquisite? In a barbecue joint? Yes -this place is taking barbecue to another level.

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