Datebook Diner: Ribs, pulled pork delight at Woody's

Exterior of Woody's Smoke Shack along Cottage Grove and 25th in Des Moines. (Credit: Lisa Fernandez/The Register)

Knowing how to admirably smoke meat is not the same thing as knowing how to run an admirable barbecue restaurant. Fortunately, Cheryl and Woody Wasson, owners of Woody's Smoke Shack, deftly do both.

Ambiance: The neat-as-a-pin restaurant enjoys a snug little home in a Drake-area brick storefront, with high-top tables atop hardwood floors. The decor blends nostalgic ads with an impressive display of certificates and plaques attesting to the couples' many barbecue championship awards. Outside, enjoy the pleasant patio, or eat at picnic tables under a canopy on the lawn.

Menu: Choose from smoked brisket, ham and pulled pork and chicken sandwiches, plus ribs, along with popular barbecue and home-style side dishes - beans, slaw, potato salad, macaroni and cheese, hot sweet apples, macaroni salad, and cheesy potatoes. And get this: Woody's doesn't serve alcohol, but you can bring your own beer and wine, without a corkage fee.

Service: A friendly and efficient order-at-the-counter operation with disposable tableware.

Best bites: The baby-back ribs set us swooning, with their subtly smoked, wonderfully moist meat and fascinating rub, which had melted into a pleasantly shiny, lightly sweet coating. The pulled pork sandwich delighted as well. And when pulled chicken can rival pulled pork in flavor and succulence - well, that's some mighty good chicken. Sides gladdened us, too. Sometimes it's easy to forget how good coleslaw can be - the vibrant, crunchy homemade version here puts the usual limp, drippy slosh to shame. Super-saucy, sweet-tinged beans and guiltily good (albeit lukewarm) cheesy potatoes also won accolades. Get there on Wednesday, and revel in the bitter, salty, spicy collard greens.

Be sure to grab some of the cornbread squares, akin to a sweet, rustic cake and served help-yourself style in a sheet pan. The signature sauces pleased too, especially, the bravely bold spicy-style version.

Less so: Dry slabs of less-than-thrilling brisket disappointed, and the day-glow orange mac 'n' cheese seemed made with the under-10 crowd in mind.

Stay for dessert: Oh, yes! Homemade pies, filled with summer's best fruits and crafted by a local baker, brought the kind of tender, flaky crust few can master.

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