Datebook Diner: Tally's moves right in to former B&B space

Chef Robert Sanda in the dining room. (Credit: Andrea Melendez/The Register)

Preliminary visit; not yet rated.

Beaverdale's B&B Restaurant closed the first weekend in August, and the stoves barely got cold before the all-new Tally's Restaurant and Bar took over the space, including the restaurant's excellent patio and rooftop.

Who/what: Businessman Jeff West teamed up with chef Robert Sanda, whose resume includes stints at Cosi Cucina, Metro Fish and the Radish in Grimes.

Ambiance: Though spiffed up with art and linen-draped tables, the casual neighborhood vibe still entices. Once an alley, the charming middle room reminded me of one of those cozy-yet-refined restaurants that Europeans tuck into just about any space they can find.

Menu: With chicken fingers, calamari, onion rings, Caesar salad, burgers, tenderloins, pasta (alfredo, marinara, basil pesto) and steaks, the menu offers many typical American standbys. A few less-common surprises include pasta with beef tips in an asiago cream sauce, smoked chicken cannelloni as well as macaroni and cheese with prosciutto and peas.

Vegetarians will be glad to spot some thoughtful meatless dishes, including a blue-cheese portabella burger and an original vegetarian "Portobella and Peppers" dish, with wilted spinach, garlic, pine nuts, balsamic vinegar and olive oil.

Try this: The chicken cannelloni, with house-smoked chicken, sweet butternut squash, spinach and luscious cheese, arrives bubbling in an Alfredo sauce and topped with caramelized shallots. It could well become this restaurant's go-to classic.

Opening-week jitters? Alas, a tenderloin filet arrived lukewarm, and one bite of the less-than-spectacular meat let me down - with words like "dry-aged, and "cut in-house" on the menu, I was hoping for a better beef experience.

Service: Though cheerfully accommodating, our server was a bit green, with uncleared plates piling up as the meal progressed. However, I was impressed with how abundantly staffed the front of the house was, especially considering my visit occurred within the opening week. This shows an overall commitment to getting service right.

Stay for dessert: Yes - the refined mascarpone cheesecake deftly satisfied our desire for something sweet, without making us feel done in by the usual gooey mass that often stands in for dessert at lesser restaurants.

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