Datebook Diner: Bistro Montage shines under new chef

Bistro Montage offers an intimate dining experience in the Ingersoll neighborhood. (Credit: Mary Chind/The Register)

Eight months into its new life with new chef-owner Enosh Kelley, Bistro Montage has really hit its stride; from the talent in the kitchen, to the committed servers out front, to the overall upbeat groove of the place, there's much to love here.

Menu: French-inspired bistro fare; starters priced mostly $6 to $9; entrees $17 to $35. Limited three-course fixed price menu $27 ($23 Tuesdays through Thursdays before 6 p.m.). As with most contemporary bistros, the market-driven menu changes often.

Atmosphere: Black-and-white food-themed photographs grace the rich red walls, and storefront windows give view to the avenue. It's a cozy yet energetic place, which is to say, 100 percent urban bistro.

Tasting notes: The extraordinary starters set just the right tone for the delights to come. I've not had a better risotto -a creamy, aromatic concoction studded with fresh artichoke hearts (not those tinny canned things) and finished with brittle bits of prosciutto. The rich and wonderful homemade Duck and Cherry Sausage arrived attractively sliced and fanned out with a contrasting sweet-tart onion confit and sprightly greens.

Our server recommended the just-in-that-day halibut, and indeed, the moist, glistening white fish tasted table-by-the-sea fresh. Duck lovers should consider the Maple Leaf Farms Duck Breast, with its flavorful port demi-glace, hearty potato galette (sliced, stacked and browned potatoes) and sparkling fresh spinach.

Well-purveyed meats and poultry make all the difference; plump free-range chicken, meaty rack of lamb and a thick, bone-in Niman Ranch Pork Chop were all succulent, superior cuts. Thoughtful accompaniments, including a black truffle potato croquette with the lamb and opulent white-truffle whipped potatoes with the chicken, treaded that very bistro territory between fascinating and familiar.

Flaws: Very few, very minor. Perhaps I caught them on an off night when it came to the Goat Cheese Tart; the soggy crust disappointed. Sometimes, the sauces left me non-plussed; the demi-glace, served on the pork chop and rack of lamb, lacked the deep-dense flavors I'm used to in a demi-glace. The halibut's Cardamom-Carrot Sauce tasted somewhat slight.

Stay for dessert? Yes -embrace the desserts with passion here, as the chef certainly does. Love the classics? You'll love the lemon tart, the crÏme brulee and the chocolate torte; these always-popular desserts are even better in a fun little tasting plate with cute miniature versions of each. But keep an eye out for those intricate, flavor-layered finds such as Dacquoise (buttercream-filled meringue layers graced with chocolate ganache and almonds) and Banana Brulee (brittle-glazed banana slices, arranged like flower petals, atop a tender cake, with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce alongside).

Service/Bottom Line: As charming and energetic as the overall experience.

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