Datebook Diner: Le Jardin serves fine French cuisine

Fans who have followed Chef Tag Grandgeorge for the past decade are smiling with pride: This young man's passion and hard work have paid off.

Space: Le Jardin. The Garden. It's a romantic name, one that connotes warm soil and climbing vines. But drop those expectations at the door. The interior of Le Jardin looks more like Le Gulag. Hard-edged and contemporary, this venue features a bare-boned, industrial-inspired design and chilly utilitarianism that eschews the cozy colors and warmth of the French countryside.

Service: My, oh my, what a treat. Here, we experience savvy servers who not only paid attention, but took copious notes during menu education. This crew is faultlessly familiar with each dish, including the origin of its ingredients and the nuances of its preparation.

Blessedly unencumbered by the chi-chi snobbery and comical affectations that so often afflict French restaurants, Le Jardin's friendly, helpful, efficient taste tutors quickly won me over in another quirky sort of way. By uttering French pronunciations almost as clumsy as my own, they conveniently and completely alleviated the verbal intimidation that most diners - including this one - feel when ordering in an unfamiliar language. And it almost seemed like they might have planned it that way.

Menu: When dining out, never underestimate the value of two things: a small menu and a kitchen so close that the chef can watch the chewing. Both of these elements contribute to the masterful cuisine that graces Le Jardin's classic white plates.

Overall, the menu pays homage to the cuisine of the France's Champagne country. Charcuterie, an Alsatian specialty, is executed here with finesse. His luscious Pork Terrine, presented with the classic trinity of red currant sauce, tiny sour pickles and whole grain mustard, was a revelation. Yet it competed fiercely for top honors with a buttery, pistachio studded chicken pate served with rich handmade tarragon-enhanced mayo.

Onglet, the precious, grainy-textured hanger steak adored by beef connoisseurs, was marinated just enough to accentuate the assertive flavors of the steak. Rare, thin-sliced and decked out, it made a plate pretty and delicious.

An intensely rich and thick but silken custard ended our experience on an unforgettably sweet note.

Bottom Line: Fine and affordable French food.

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