Home > Des Moines Restaurants > Editorial Review > Editorial Juice Review: China Cafe

My freshman year of high school, a new and fabulous thing happened in the then-small town of Johnston. A Chinese restaurant opened. It was the only Chinese restaurant in Johnston at the time and for a student with little cash to burn, it was the perfect lunch.

Seven years later, the family-owned restaurant still is a treat for the palette and the wallet. Although it's no longer the only Chinese eatery in town, its character, longevity and community roots still make it my preference.

SCENE

The small, unintrusive restaurant doesn't stand out in the partly vacant strip mall on the east side of Merle Hay Road. The restaurant, which seats about 50 people, fills quickly over the lunch hour with students and teachers, especially during the school year, but remains quiet enough to hold private conversations.

FOOD

The lunch special's tasty soup, egg roll and chicken wing were presented almost immediately after ordering from the extensive menu with lunch entrees going for $4.65-$5.25.

I varied from my normal favorite, the veggie fried rice, and tried the Vegetable House Mix. The plate came heaping with rice and crisp veggies for a filling but not too heavy meal. The menu designates spicy items, which included the Bean Curd Home Style (zippy but not too spicy).

SERVICE

The restaurant distinguishes itself with fast, friendly service. The one lunchtime server is quick to refill drinks and mingle with regulars. Proving his memory to be sharp, the server recognized me as a former regular from more than six years ago. During busy times, additional staff members help out to maintain the prompt attention given during slower times. Customers seldom wait more than 10-15 minutes.

BOTTOM LINE
No doubt a local favorite, but worth the special trip. Head there before school starts up to enjoy the restaurant during slower times.

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