Editorial Juice Review: Christopher's

Christopher's is a landmark in the Beaverdale neighborhood. The current owners have operated the restaurant since 1963, serving family recipes and other specials like Steak DeBurgo, pasta and meatballs and a homemade creamy Italian salad dressing.

The service: I can almost always think of a way service could have been better at a restaurant, but not here. We were seated right away, water glasses were filled, our food came out quickly and in the right order and our check was delivered, card swiped and returned before I could think to ask about it. Nicely done.

The atmosphere: I expected a quiet crowd on a Tuesday evening but the restaurant was more than half full. I suspect this restaurant has a lot of regulars, who come as much for the familiar faces of the owners as anything. Cozy booths and tables filled a front, middle and back room. No cutting edge decor, but muted tones fit the atmosphere.

The menu: You might need extra time to navigate the large menu here. Appetizers range from spinach dip and onion rings to escargot, salads feature optional toppers like shrimp and chicken, and hearty entrees cover pasta, chicken, seafood and beef. Most entrees hover around the $20 mark but diners on a budget can choose from a menu of sandwiches under $10.

The food: We started off with an order of the restaurant's hand-breaded cheese sticks. They were different than the typical frozen-out-of-a-bag variety with a milder flavor and meltier texture. We dipped them in marinara and ate every crumb. Next came salad with the house dressing, a sweeter than usual garlicky blend, and fresh-baked bread. For dinner I had the salmon and dill linguine, served in a lemony cream sauce. My dining partner had the pan-seared scallops with mashed potatoes. Both of us thought the food was good, but could have used more seasoning.

The wrapup: Head to Christopher's for friendly faces, stellar service and hearty dishes that have stood the test of time.

Receipt:
Cheese sticks, $6.95
Salmon and Dill Linguine, $14.95
Pan Seared Scallops, $20.95
Two waters, free
Total with tax and tip, $54.42