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Though the Drake Diner will never be credited for reinventing the culinary wheel, the relaxed atmosphere and menu favorites have kept its clientele coming back for more.

Surrounded by classic black-and-chrome diner cliches, a friend and I settled into a small table. With the expansive menu offering plenty of healthy and unhealthy choices, we battled our temptations for the heart attack-inducing cheese frenchie or rarebit burger and ordered dishes that would allow us to remain productive during the afternoon.

THE GOOD

We stuck with classic diner fare and the decision paid off. A cheeseburger arrived thick, hot and cooked perfectly. The BLT didn't disappoint either - no skimping on the bacon and just enough mayonnaise to add some flavor without overpowering the sandwich. We both ordered crinkle-cut fries. While they're standard in the realm of fried potatoes, they're exactly what we expected to see at a diner, and thus, satisfying.

Though we're meat eaters, my dining partner was excited to see so many vegetarian options in addition to the standard veggie burger: a black bean taco salad, a portabella sandwich and more. Because her husband is a vegetarian, their dining options in Des Moines are somewhat limited by meat-laden menus, so the Drake Diner provides another stop on the rotation.

THE BAD

Sandwiches or anything, for that matter don't come with fries. They don't come with anything but pickles. Unlike most restaurants, fries, salads and onion rings are all added at an additional charge, which can make an unknowing eater a little surprised to see them listed separately on a bill.

THE VERDICT Attentive service and reliable food thrive in this Des Moines institution. Though its menu dabbles in some fancier fare, the heart of this historic diner is comfort food. While we were disappointed that our $20 budget wouldn't allow us to order a malt or shake, we vowed to try one during our next visit.

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