Home > Des Moines Restaurants > Editorial Review > Editorial Juice Review: Hickory Park

There are some restaurants that you could visit every day for a year and choose something different from the menu each time. Hickory Park is one of those places. But once you've been there, you're likely to never stray from the same selection once you've found a favorite.

THE GOOD

The ambiance is still reminiscent of the original Hickory Park that opened in 1970. Old church pews serve as seating and decor is set off by antique glass and tin signs. We've never seen more seating in an Iowa restaurant.

Service is speedy and the staff are pros at keeping up with special requests and substitutions. Food at Hickory Park is consistently good. The menu is mostly made up of barbecue fare. Selection ranges from beef or pork hickories (specialty burgers) to old-fashioned hot meat sandwiches and barbecued dinners.

Most sandwiches cost around $6 and dinners, which are oversized, cost $5 to $17. Side orders include cheese balls, three bean salad and mashed potatoes. There are choices galore when it comes to picking a kind of bread, cheese and even phosphates to add to your soda.

The best part about the restaurant could be its variety of hand-dipped ice cream desserts that come from its renowned ice cream fountain. We started our visit with a Green River soda and a chocolate/coffee shake. We substituted the fries that were supposed to come with our meal for cheese balls, which the server brought out to us within five minutes.

The barbecue beef sandwich and hickory burger (topped with cheese, guacamole and jalapenos) were as tasty as we expected.

THE BAD

During peak dining hours, there is usually a wait. On Sundays, the crowd is so large that some patrons even wait outside the building. We heard one person compare it to being hauled into a hog confinement after they were assigned a number that was eventually called over a loudspeaker.

It's also not the kind of restaurant you'll want to try if you're looking for a quiet dining experience. The noise level is high and Hickory Park is definitely a favorite for kids.

BOTTOM LINE

It's the kind of place everyone should try at least once. It's a good place to meet with friends or family for good, cheap food in a fun atmosphere.

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