Editorial Juice Review: Latin King

January 5, 2007

 

Latin King
Address:
2200 Hubbell Ave., Des Moines, IA, 50317
Phone:
515-266-4466
Overall User Rating:
4 (12 ratings)
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Hours:
11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 4 p.m.-11 p.m. Friday; 4 p.m.-10 p.m. Saturday.
Official Web Site:
http://www.tursislatinking.com/
By Brianne Sanchez * brianne@dmJuice.com
January 23, 2008


We visited one of the city's old standbys to see how it stacks up in Des Moines' exploding upscale dining scene.

THE SERVICE

At first, we were seated next to a large, noisy group, but the hostess quickly moved us to a more private section of the restaurant. Our server was prompt, bringing and removing dishes and glasses discreetly so we could enjoy our conversation.

THE ATMOSPHERE

The entryway is impressive, with a crystal chandelier and red carpet, but the frescos on the walls in the dining areas come off as a little cheesy.

The table behind us was conducting a business meeting, but with our backs to them and Sinatra piping through the speakers, we hardly noticed. The crowd was a mix of younger and older couples - skewing older - and a large family. The adjacent room was a little bit quieter.

THE MENU

Authentic Italian, with pastas, seafood and a half-page of meat-heavy featured items. Dishes range from the mid-teens to high-20s in price. Local favorites like Steak de Burgo add to the "We're not at The Olive Garden" feel.

THE FOOD

I ordered the Chicken Spiedini with Amogio Sauce, a restaurant specialty. Breaded and crunchy on the outside, the meat was moist and the seasoned oil it was served in was delicious. The steamed broccoli and carrot side was a little meager, though. My boyfriend went with the top sirloin, medium rare, and a baked potato. The steak came out on the rare side, but the outside was crispy and to his taste. For dessert, we tried the cannoli, which came with two servings.

THE WRAPUP

Tursi's Latin King is like a versatile outfit you can dress up or dress down. The servers are competent, the menu holds a reasonably priced list of tried-and-true plates and the atmosphere is comfortable. Although hot new restaurants are cropping up to the west, the Tuesday night packed parking lot proves this spot will be around for even longer than its 61-year history.

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