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Lucca is the definitive East Village restaurant, offering two- or three-course prix fixe menus in one of the most stylish settings in Des Moines.

THE SERVICE

"You boys look hungry. I'll get more bread." With that, our waitress won me over. It's too easy in such high-end establishments to feel uneasy, like you might break an unspoken rule. But Cecilia knew how to make us feel at home, and yet in one of the classiest spots in town.

THE ATMOSPHERE

Clean lines give Lucca an austere and modern look. It is hard not to feel like this is a place to be seen, or be mesmerized watching the chefs in the open kitchen.

THE MENU

Lucca offers a $25, two-course prix fixe dinner Tuesday through Thursday and a $34, three-course prix fixe menu on Friday and Saturday. Lunch is offered Tuesday through Saturday and includes sandwiches, pasta and salad.

THE FOOD

We picked the two-course dinner, selecting gnocchi and then vegetarian versions of the cheese ravioli (brussels sprouts and carrots on top instead of scallops) and linguine (vegetables instead of lamb).

The made-from-scratch gnocchi was our favorite part of the meal. The dumplings were cooked in chive butter and had just the right texture. The ravioli was delightful, and the slightly crunchy sprouts and carrots played well together. The warm cucumbers and brussels sprouts with the linguine were not destined to be on a plate together, but sometimes that is the fate of diners who ask for substitutions.

I admire any chef brave enough to put a savory dessert on the menu. The rosemary and olive oil cake and saffron panna cotta did not disappoint.

THE WRAPUP

We were left wanting more, but only in the way excellent food and a comfortable atmosphere can create.