Home > Des Moines Restaurants > Editorial Review > Editorial Juice Review: Mojos on 86th

Chef Rob Beasley opened Mojos on 86th in February in a dowdy strip mall in Johnston. The exterior is unappealing, especially when you consider his other restaurants were located in a quaint old church (Adam & Abby's) and in a sophisticated streetside cafe near Drake (Varsity Cafe). Like Taki, Mojos qualifies as a good place to eat stuck in a weird location.

THE GOOD

The lunch entrees were all priced less than $10. Beasley designed a menu that highlights his Mississippi heritage (Cajun sandwiches, Cajun spices) and locally produced foods like Northern Prairie Chevre and Sheeder Farms chicken.

I struggled to choose between the $8 Free Range Chicken & Dumplings (roasted Sheeder Farms chicken, shiitake mushrooms and caramelized onions in broth with herb-infused dumplings) and the packed $8 Grilled Vegetable Sandwich (zucchini, yellow squash, eggplant, asparagus, portabellos, roasted sweet peppers and fresh mozzarella on ciabatta with balsamic vinegar, served with pasta salad). The city has been lacking a good veggie sandwich since ArtHouse closed last year. Instead, I decided on the special � Hawaiian Sunfish with roasted vegetables. The wedges of fish were just the way I like them � not "fishy" and perfectly paired with the vegetables, which I slowly savored one at a time.

My dining partner wasn't all that hungry and ordered a cup of Roasted Garlic and Tomato Soup. The blood-red soup was thick and creamy enough to serve as a dip for the seasoned bread that arrived in a wire basket.

THE BAD

The server was very informed on the daily lunch specials, but it irks me when servers don't offer the price with the tantalizing descriptions. Forcing customers to ask how much specials cost is uncomfortable.

Also, the garlic taste wasn't obvious in the Roasted Garlic and Tomato Soup.

BOTTOM LINE

One of the best original lunches you'll find in the suburbs.