Editorial Juice Review: Old Chicago Pasta & Pizza

By Kimberly Isburg

Juice Staff Writer
May 12, 2008

 

Old Chicago Pasta and Pizza, Merle Hay Mall
Address:
3800 Merle Hay Road, Suite 520, Des Moines, IA, 50310
Phone:
515-727-1300
Overall User Rating:
4 (3 ratings)
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Hours:
11 a.m.-1 a.m. Monday through Thursday (kitchen closes at midnight); 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Friday through Saturday (kitchen closes at 1 a.m.); 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Sunday (bar closes at midnight)
Official Web Site:
http://www.oldchicago.com/
I entered the newly-opened Old Chicago through the mall entrance (complete with pizza slice door handles) and found a lively, packed bar area at 8 p.m. on a Monday. Groups of 20- and 30-somethings watched the Monday Night Football game. My husband and I found our way to the front, where we checked in with the hostess at a parking meter (instead of a podium). After about a 10-minute wait, our table was ready.

As you might expect, Chicago-themed artwork adorns the walls. The dining area isn't especially large, but the open layout makes it feel comfortable, not cramped.

THE GOOD

After perusing the expansive menu - which includes pasta, calzones, pizzas, sandwiches and burgers - we decided to share a medium Classic pizza, topped with pepperoni, mushrooms, Italian sausage, roasted garlic and mozzarella. We ordered it Chicago style, which meant a thick, pan-style crust that was soft on the inside and crunchy on the outside, with a buttery flavor. It's definitely a knife-and-fork kind of pizza.

My favorite part was the Little Big Cookie, a smaller version of the original Big Cookie sized for two or three people instead of three or four. This fresh-out-of-the-oven, deep-dish chocolate chip cookie had my husband and I fighting over the crumbs left on the shared plate after only one bite. Next time, we'll have to share the regular size version.

THE BAD

The entrance area was pretty congested for a Monday night, so dining there on a weekend might require waiting in the bar area. Though the pizza was tasty, the sauce was a little stingy for my taste and the toppings were sparse. Since our budget was limited we didn't get to try any appetizers or drinks.

THE VERDICT

Old Chicago is a great casual place to grab a meal with family or friends. Plus, it's conveniently located inside Merle Hay Mall, so you can easily grab a bite to eat after a long day of shopping. Honestly, a big, gooey chocolate chip cookie is reason enough for me to visit again.

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